If you are new in the sewing world, or you’ve decided to dust-off your sewing machine and start sewing after a long time, you probably have no idea what a serger sewing machine is or have the slightest knowledge, but you don’t know how to use a serger sewing machine. This article gives you a comprehensive and articulate guide on how to use a serger for beginners.
So, What is a Serger Sewing Machine?
A serger sewing machine, also known as an overlocker, is a kind of stitching machine that sews on the edges of a single or double fabric using multiple threads to seam and overcast raw edges.
It can achieve multiple tasks at once like trim, seam, and finish. Now that you know what a serger sewing machine is, now let’s learn serger machine uses.
There are several tasks you can accomplish using a serger.
What is a Serger Sewing Machine Used For?
- You can use your serger machine to seam the edges of the fabric.
- Trims the seam allowance to give your garment a professional neat and quality look. Blades trim the fabric edges, the lower and upper looper threads wrap around these edges to secure them from flaring.
- It’s also used for construction. For instance when making net garments, knits, or woven fabrics.
- An ideal preference for overcasting.
- You can use a serger to create fancy edges and rolled hems.
Main Parts of a Serger Sewing Machine
- Stitch length dials
- Two needles. You can use either one or two needles depending on the choice of the stitch.
- Differential dial. It’s used when gathering
- Cutting blades. Trims your fabric edges
- Tension dials. Helps you get a nice and smooth stitch.
Serger sewing machines vary in models and can accomplish different results. This is because of the number of threads found on different serger machines, i.e. 2, 3, 4, and 5 threads.
2-Thread serger. It’s ideal for woven and knit fabrics common for overlocking stitches, hemming, and finishing seam edges. It can also be used to stitch laces and elastic fabrics.
3-Threads serger. It creates rolled narrow hems and covering fabric raw edges. It can also be used to create decorative edges when you use contrasting thread.
4-Threaded serger. Commonly known for creating mock safety stitches that add extra strength to the fabric. It also finishes edges especially in stress areas like when using thick fabrics.
5-Thread serger. Finishes the raw edges of the fabric. This serger has all you could want in your sewing experience. It creates the strongest seams.
Using more threads in a serger sewing will give you stronger and wider seams.
To decide the number of threads to use on your serger, you need to understand the purpose of a serger sewing machine on every project. For instance when dealing with different fabrics like sequins, woolen, lace, knits, or net fabric. Make sure you match the fabric type with the choice of the stitch.
E.g. lightweight fabrics (like silk) will need fewer threads. On the other hand, heavy fabrics will require more threads i.e. four-thread stitch.
How does a Serger Sewing Machine Work?
As you stitch, the blades trim the edge of the fabric and enclose the seam allowance in the threaded casing. The lower looper moves left to right and the upper looper moves from right to left and passes above the plate.
The two are joined by the needle threads to form complex overlock stitches.
How to Thread a Serger
Threading a serger can be daunting especially if you are a beginner. It’s the most critical part to understand when learning how to use a serger sewing machine. However, it shouldn’t intimidate you because this article will help you learn the right way to thread your serger.
It’s a process that requires you to be keen and patient to ensure that you pass the thread through all the thread guides.
Few points to keep in mind,
- Use quality thread to prevent breaking and re-threading it. Using poor quality threads that fluff will leave lint in your machine, forcing you to clean it often. Quality threads like polyester are durable, can stretch and withstand a lot of stress.
- Be sure to follow the right threading order. There are color codes to help your thread your machine i.e. green, blue, red, and yellow.
- The upper looper aligns with red color. The green thread guide is the lower looper. The red and yellow are the needle threads.
- Read through the user’s manual to counter-check how to use a serger sewing machine of your model.
To Thread Your Serger,
Pull up the thread tower, and raise the presser foot to release tension. Then rise the needles by moving the handwheel.
NB: following the right thread order is very important to help you thread your serger correctly.
Now take the thread end and pass it through the thread tower, back to the front. Feed the thread through the pre-tension guide which is just above the machine.
Finally, pull the thread through the groove downwards. When you open the machine, you will see a schematic that guides you through how to thread the looper threads.
Follow these guides as the diagram indicates. Make sure the thread aligns with the thread guide. That is lower looper thread should be threaded on the lower looper thread guide. Vis a Vis for upper looper.
Pull the threads to the back and leave about 5-inch tails. You are done threading the lower and upper loopers
How to Thread the Needles
U can use one or both needles depending on the type of stitch you are making. For example, for 4-thread overlock you use both needles. However, when using one needle, remember to remove the needle that is not threaded. Then follow the color code to thread the needle that you have chosen.
Please note that you will thread the needles from front to back.
Serger Machine Uses
Your serger is ready to use.
How to use a serger sewing machine when sewing straight edges
Stitch a few inches to see if your machine is threaded well. You can leave about 5-inches of chain. Insert the fabric under the presser foot, and let the chain hang to the back.
Now you can peddle your foot press to sew your garment. Start off an inch off the edge of the fabric, stitch about two stitches, and then back stitch to the edge of the fabric.
Then run the machine to stitch through to the other end. Finally, back stitch again as you did in the beginning to secure the seam. Be careful on the speed to make neat seam allowance.
Always remember that you are the one to control your stitches. Avoid pulling or forcing the garment through because it can cause serious problems.
Practice will make it easier to work faster, and run the fabric through smoothly. When you get the hang of sewing straight edges, you can now learn how to serge the curved edges.
How to use a serger sewing machine on curved edges
There are two types of curves, inside curves and concave curves.
Concave Curve
Here you need to sit comfortably in front of the machine to ensure that the blades remain in-line with edges to avoid running off the fabric. Next, place the fabric under the presser foot, use one hand carefully guide the fabric around the curve.
Inside Curve
Get the fabric underneath the foot and in line with the blade. Try and gather the fabric ensuring that you get a straight line to get perfect seams.
How to use a serger sewing machine for corners
You will start to sew as if serging a straight edge. Remember to back-stitch to secure the edge. Stop at the end of the fabric, lift the foot, and ensure the needle is in the highest position.
Use your tweezers and pull the thread just above the needle to create a slack. This gives you an allowance to turn your fabric. Pull the fabric back and turn it to the other position and continue stitching.
Now that you know how to serge fabrics of any shape,
How do you Start or Stop with a Serger
This depends on the type of project you are serging. Some projects requires you to overlap the stitches by ending at the same point. Serge the fabric edges as required, when you go all round, overlap the starting point and stitch off the edge at an angle.
Cut the chain off the fabric and trim it close to the fabric edge. To prevent the stitches from unravelling, you can use a liquid seam sealant.
In Conclusion
Learning how to use a serger sewing machine is an important skill to own. However, it doesn’t mean you should equate it to a regular sewing machine. It only compliments your sewing projects to give them a more professional and finished look.
So, is learning to use a serger sewing machine challenging? Of course, it is but will be worth the trouble when you achieve that neat and professional-looking garment.
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