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How to Sew a Button- A Comprehensive Beginners Guide

Admin Admin
August 6, 2021

Sewing a button either on a new project or repairing popped button is a fundamental skill everyone should own. Nothing ruins a nice garment than a missing button. Don’t ruin that interview or special occasion outfit with just a missing button that can be easily fixed. When you learn how to sew a button on this step-by-step beginner’s guide.

But before we learn how to sew a button, there are some important points to note to ensure you button your fabric correctly.

Factors To Consider Before Sewing A Button

1. Type of Fabric Used or Garment Style

Fabric design. Use buttons that blend with your fabric. For instance, choose a color from the fabric for your button. You can also decide to mix and match by choosing contrasting buttons like designed buttons on a solid fabric or use a solid button on a printed garment.

When choosing a button for your garment, it should complement the style, shape, and design of your pattern. E.g., if you have rounded edges, then use round buttons. On the other hand, for a sharp line with shapes use buttons with sharp edges.

Consider also the weight of the fabric. Too heavy fabric will require much larger and heavier buttons. The lighter fabric will require lighter and smaller buttons. This helps with the functionality and appearance.

Using a heavy and large button on heavy fabric helps the button to support the weight of the fabric. Fabric weight also affects the spacing of the buttons. Larger buttons shouldn’t be placed very close to each other, whilst smaller buttons can be placed closer to each other.

2. Purpose Of The Button

The button sewn can be either functional or decorative. Some are made to serve both purposes. But, if you choose to have a functional button, then it should be sewn to serve the purpose right.

For functional buttons make sure you add a shank if the choice of button doesn’t have one. Decorative buttons should lie flat on the garment, i.e. do not add shank, or use shank buttons.

Remember also to check on the button type and which side should be facing up to avoid sewing it upside down. E.g., some buttons have ledges. Make sure the ledge is facing up, and the flat side facing the fabric.

Remember, if you are sewing a new project, a button is the last thing to do.

3. Type Of Button To Use

Buttons vary in terms of styles and shapes. E.g. shank buttons (Hooper, wire buttons) or sew-through buttons (2-hole, 4-hole buttons).

Classification of Sewing the Button

Sewing the Button is classified in two categories

Sew a button by Hand
Sew a button with a Sewing Machine

Let’s dive into the details of these two categories

How To Sew A Button By Hand

Items Required

The items you will need include:

Thread. The thread should match the button or the fabric.

needle,

Toothpick, a pin, or an extra needle. This is for creating space between the button and the fabric, which makes it easy to button your garment. However, it’s not necessary to add a shank when you are using very light fabric.

Beeswax (optional) prevents the thread from tangling. All you need to do is pass the threaded needle through it. It is also important to strengthen the button especially if you are working on a heavy garment.

Thimble. It helps protect your finger from being injured when pushing the needle. It’s also used to push the needle through the fabric.

Scissors

Steps On How To Sew A Button

Here are the easy steps on how to sew a button of any type

Step 1: Thread your needle and pull the two threads approximately 3 inches long. Pull the thread ends and make them even. Tie a knot at the tail of the thread ends.

To tie a knot, wrap the thread ends around your finger to create a loop. Then pass the ends into the loop and pull tight.

Step 2: Align the button with the fabric. Make sure the button marker is in line with the buttonhole or loop.

Step 3: From the wrong side of your fabric, make your first stitch to the right side of the fabric. Pull the thread completely from one of the buttonholes.

Step 4: Use a toothpick or a pin to create a shank by placing it on top of the button. Using a toothpick creates a space between the fabric and the button, which helps to easily enter the button to the buttonhole so that it sits without straining the garment.

To add a shank,

Check the thickness of fabric. Thick fabric will require shank allowance so that there is no strain when buttoning. It also prolongs the life of the button because there will be reduced pressure around the buttoned area.

The position of buttons like in pants, skirts will require you to add a shank when sewing a button,

Step 5: Pass the thread through the next hole, and into the back of the fabric. Insert the needle back up into the fabric and to the first hole. Going front to back, back to front, and Repeat these stitches six to eight times.

Note, the number of stitches varies depending on the fabric thickness. For heavy, medium fabric, or larger buttons, you will need to make slightly more stitches to strengthen the button.

Step 6: Remove the pin and pull the button to the top. Pass the needle from the back to the front but do not pass it through the buttonhole. Wrap the thread around the loop that is between the fabric and the button to create a shank.

Note that the shank height should be the same as the thickness of the fabric.

Step 7: Then pass the needle to the back of the fabric and pull all the thread. Pass the needle under the stitch threads and leave a loop, wrap the thread around the needle three times and pass it through the loop. Cut off the threads.

How To Sew A 2-Hole Button,

The procedure for how to sew a button on a 2-hole button is similar to the one illustrated above, the only key point to note is that the button placement should be such that the holes are vertical.

How To Sew A 4-Hole Button

For a four-hole button, the procedure is the same as with 2-hole button but with some differences.

Unlike 2-hole button where you can choose to add a shank or not, in 4-hole button, you must add a shank. The reason being the wide area that is occupied when passing the thread through all four holes makes it difficult to keep the work neat when buttoned.

Failing to add a shank can cause the garment to cramp around the buttoned area. Adding a shank to 4-hole button joins the threads together so that they fit well in the buttonhole. To make the two joined fabrics lay flat, add a shank.

Correctly place the button at the marker by making sure it is at the center of the holes.

Patterns For Sewing A 4-Hole Button

Sewing a 4-hole button can be made in two patterns.

Creating an X pattern or
Form 2 bars

How to sew a button with four holes creating an X pattern

Thread a needle and double it up to the desired length and tie a knot on the two tails. From the back of the fabric, bring the needle through to the underside of the button into the top right hole, then go through the bottom left hole.

Under the stitch you’ve just made, pass through a toothpick or pin to create a shank. Bring the needle back up through the bottom right and back down through the top left hole.

Repeat this pattern until the button is secured firmly for about 6-8 stitches.

Then push the needle through the fabric but not on the button. Remove the pin and pull the button at the top. Wrap the thread around the loop between the button and the fabric.

Then bring the needle on the wrong side of the fabric. Grab the stitched thread and pass through the needle leaving a slightly small loop, pass the needle through the loop and pull the thread until a knot is formed to secure the button.

You can repeat this step. Pass the needle once more into the threads and snip the thread close to the fabric.

How to sew a button with 4 holes creating two bars

This is done by creating two rows of stitches. Rather than crossing the thread in opposite holes, you can choose to work on the hole adjacent to each other, then work on the hole below them. Forming a set of two parallel line stitches.

You will need to pass the needle through the top right hole then back through the top left hole.

Pass it back up through the bottom right hole and back through the bottom left hole. And repeat the process as above.

How To Sew A Shank Button

Shank buttons are buttons with a protrusion at the back. Unlike other buttons with visible holes on the surface, a shank buttons hole is not visible on the right side.

Shank buttons are common in jackets, coats, or garments made from heavy fabrics. Sewing on a shank button is as easy as it only requires in and out stitching.

Learning how to sew a button with a shank is almost like flat buttons. The only important point to note is the positioning of the shank. Make sure that the direction of the shank is in line with the buttonhole.

Thread your needle and pull it in two strands. Tie a knot at the tails of the thread. Check for the position of the button and mark it with a disappearing sewing marker.

From the underside of the garment, pass through the needle to the top side. Pass the needle through the shank and stitch on the fabric.

Do not pull the threads too tight to avoid sinking the shank into the fabric. U can choose to use a pin between the shank and the fabric to help lay the shank flat on the garment.

Repeat these stitches 5-6 times until the button is secured. Pass the needle so that it is just below the shank, remove the pin and wrap the thread on the needle several times around the threads holding the button.

Bring the needle to the back of the fabric, pull it tight

Pass it through the garment just underneath the shank, leaving a small loop, pass the needle through the loop to create a knot. You can repeat these two or three times. Then cut the excess threads.

How To Sew A Button With A Sewing Machine

Sewing buttons by hand can be tedious especially if you need to sew on quite a number of buttons. For bulk projects that need a button sewn, it’s good that you consider learning how to sew a button by machine.

First, you may want to check on your sewing machine manual to see if it has some information about sewing a button. Some machines have settings for sewing 2 or 4 hole buttons.

Best Way To Sew On A Button By Machine

Here’s the best way to sew on a button by machine.

You will need a button sewing foot. It is used to hold your button in place when stitching.
Then set your machine to zig-zag stitches because you will need to make back and forth stitches. Set the stitch width and length to 0.0.
Lower the presser foot, move the handwheel to lower the needle and see if it gets into one hole. Slowly move it to see if the width is correct and that the needle passes through the other hole. If the setting is good, you can now stitch the button in place.
Note for a four-hole button, you will need to work on the top holes and then stitch on the bottom holes.