Learning how to sew a zipper makes you a real seamstress. It’s an important sewing skill to have especially if you intend to make projects like clothing, bag, etc. zippers can be a little intimidating to make. However, it isn’t as difficult as it looks. It requires a lot of practice and patience to be able to sew perfect and neat zippers without puckering the project.
Types of Zipper
There are various types of zipper and different techniques of attaching them to a garment. Here’re 4 common types of zipper.
Metal Zippers
Their teeth are made of metal which is attached to the zipper tape. They are the ideal choice for heavy projects; like leather, coats, or bags. However, their downside is that they are not as smooth as coil zippers or plastic zippers. They are also not ideal for lightweight projects.
Coiled Zippers
To fasten your lightweight projects like polyester, knit projects, nylon etc. this kind of zipper is very easy to zip because its texture is exquisite.
Plastic Zippers
It’s the cheapest type of zippers because the materials used are cheap. They are made by melting plastic over the tape. This kind of zipper is best used on kids‘ clothing.
Invisible Zippers
They’re commonly used in garments like formal dresses, tops… they are made differently from other kinds of zippers. The zipper teeth are attached on the wrong side of the tape, hence once the zipper is sewn on a garment, the teeth will not show on the right side. The only visible thing is the pull tab.
Materials required while sewing a zipper
When learning how to sew a zipper, here are the materials you’ll need.
- A zipper foot. There are two kinds of the zipper foot. A standard foot and a zipper foot. You can use either of the two.
- Wonder tape, pins, or clips are necessary for holding the zipper and fabric in place when sewing.
- Fabric
- Zipper
Methods For Attaching a Zipper
There are 2 main techniques/methods for attaching a zipper.
How to Sew a Standard Zipper
This is the easiest way to sew a zipper. When learning how to sew a zipper, first understand the correct zipper to use in terms of weight, size, and length for your project. If your zipper is longer than required, you can always shorten it.
Steps to Follow
- Iron the zipper with a cool iron to remove creases. Be careful not to press the zipper teeth, especially coil or plastic teeth as this can damage them.
- Get two pieces of fabric. If the fabric frays, serge them before sewing in a zipper. If you have a serger, don’t cut off excess seam allowance as you will need it when attaching a zipper. You can also use a zigzag stitch or pinking shears to finish the edges.
- Hold the pieces of the fabric together and pin the seam allowance.
- Machine baste the seam allowance where you want to put your zipper. Press-open the seam allowance. Lay the zipper facing down over the basted seam, making sure the teeth are at the center of the seam allowance.
- Pin or tape the zipper in place. To reduce bulkiness, use tailors’ tape or wonder tape to hold the zipper in place.
- Turn the work to the right side, pin just above the bottom stopper of the zipper. The pin marks the point where stitches should reach and prevents sewing over the metal or plastic stopper at the bottom of the zipper.
- Turn the work on the right side. Change the presser foot and insert the zipper foot. If you don’t have a zipper foot, you can use your regular presser foot. The advantage of using a zipper foot is that it has a groove that helps you sew very close to the zipper.
- If you start working from the right side, position your needle closer to the left. Do the opposite when sewing the left side. Start with a backstitch to secure, and stitch to the end just above the bottom marker. To turn to the other side, sew across the bottom part 3-4 times, turn the work and sew the other side.
- Remove the basting stitch at the seam allowance using a seam ripper to expose the zipper opening. Be careful not to unpick the permanent topstitches.
- Test whether the zip is opening and closing with ease. If so, finish the top edges.
- To secure the top edges, fold the zipper so that it’s between the fabrics. However, let the pattern guide you on how to finish the top part. Some will require you to add a band, a facing, or binding the fabric.
How to Sew an Invisible Zipper
An invisible zipper is attached when the fabrics are separate.
Steps to Follow
- First, finish off the raw edges.
- Mark the point where your zipper will be on the seam allowance. Press the zipper with iron to straighten it by pressing the teeth away from the tape.
- You will need to use an invisible zipper foot. It’s a great tool when learning how to sew a zipper. An invisible foot has grooves that require you to place the zipper teeth in the groove, making it easy to sew close to the teeth.
- Zip up, and line it facing the right side of your fabric. Pin the zipper at the top such that the zipper teeth lay right on the seam allowance. Unzip and tape the zipper in place.
- Change the foot to the other side and continue stitching the other side. Ensure the stitches are even on both sides
- Close the bottom by stitching a few times back and forth. Finish off the top edges and you are all done.
Final Thought
Most sewing projects will require you to add a zipper. Learning how to sew a zipper will make your sewing experience more fun and your projects will look professional. Become the real fashionista by learning various techniques of sewing zippers into your projects. You will be surprised how easy it is with a bit of practice.
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