There’s nothing as satisfying as making a professional-looking project. That means from the quality of your stitches to the finishing of raw edges. Unfortunately, even a beautifully made garment with lots of fraying edges will look untidy, unprofessional, and soon will start ripping off, making your garment short-lived. I’m sure you wouldn’t want that, and that’s why it’s important to overcast your edges to prevent fraying. In this article, you will learn what is an overcast stitch and how to make them both by hand and sewing machine.
What is an overcast stitch?
An overcast stitch is a stitch that secures the raw edges of a fabric to prevent it from fraying. It’s also known as a whipstitch or an overedge stitch. And what does overcast mean? To overcast means to stitch over or cover fabric edges to prevent unraveling.
What is an overcast stitch used for? Overcast stitches can be used to finish raw edges. It’s ideal to use in knitted fabrics as both a seam and edge finishing. Can be used as a decorative stitch.
You can overcast fabric by hand or using a sewing machine.
Overcast Stitch By Hand
Why overcast by hand while you can use a sewing machine which is easy and fast?
- Some parts are hard to reach by machine on already sewn garments.
- It’s relaxing overcast by hand.
- You have control over stitch variation for precise and accurate stitches.
Methods To Overcast By Hand
Method 1. Making Diagonal Stitches
Thread your needle. Tie a knot on both threads. Pass the thread from the back of the fabric to the front. Make another stitch about ⅛ – ⅓ inch apart. Repeat making these stitches by passing the needle back to the front.
Place the needle such that each time you make a stitch it comes in the same direction. Make the tension even and avoid pulling the thread too tight. Slightly slant the needle when making these stitches.
To finish the stitches, make a tack stitch and end with a knot.
Method 2. Zigzag Stitching By Hand
Thread the needle and knot the thread ends. Bring the needle from the back. Pass the needle through the same spot from the back to the top. There will be a loop formed over the fabric edge.
Next, pass the needle between the threads. I.e., instead of passing the thread on the double thread, separate the two threads and pass the needle between them. Repeat this process to the end, then make a knot on the last stitch.
Method 3. Making Blanket Stitch
It’s best for securing woven fabric, fleece, or decorative stitch. Make a knot on both thread tails. Pass the thread from the back to the front of the fabric. Make another stitch from back to front in the same spot.
This creates a loop over the fabric. Pass the thread through the loop and pull. Repeat these steps spacing the stitches evenly. To finish, go through the last made stitch, make a loop and pass the needle through it to make a knot. Cut the excess thread.
Method 4. Overcasting By Hand
Thread your needle, and tie a knot on both threads together. Fold the fabric edges such that the raw edge is enclosed as if rolling the fabric to make a tube. Pass the thread from the back to the top, and on the folded part.
Pass the thread again from the back to the front and pull the thread to secure the folded edge. Repeat this process by separating each stitch evenly about 0.25 inches or less depending on the fabric type.
Note, some fabrics are prone to unraveling more than others. This will help you determine how far apart each stitch should be. For extra strong secured edges, make double overcasting stitches.
And What Is A Double Overcast Stitch?
A double overcast stitch is a very strong stitch used to secure edges of fabric that are extremely prone to fray.
Make double overcast in two ways:
First, make the overcasting stitches, but in every stitch you make, you go through the same spot twice.
Second, make the diagonal stitches to the end. Then, repeat the same process of making diagonal stitches but in the opposite direction, forming X shapes.
How To Finish Raw Edges On A Sewing Machine
When learning what is an overcast stitch, you will find that done on a serger or a regular sewing machine. A serger gives you firm and neat seam finishes. This is because it trims the edges and encloses them on overlocked threads.
However, if you don’t have a serger, you can achieve almost the same result using your standard sewing machine. The only difference is you will trim excess fabric manually.
Depending on the make of your machine, you will find that the overcasting options vary from one model to another. Therefore, it’s good that you check your user’s manual to see what overcasting options your machine has.
There are two ways you can finish the edges using your sewing machine
- making zigzag stitches
- Overcast stitches.
Making Zigzag Stitches
It’s the easiest way to secure raw edges. But compared to an overcast stitch, it is a bit weak and only ideal for fabrics that don’t fray easily. To get a stronger edge finish, use an overcast stitch.
What Is An Overcast Stitch On A Sewing Machine?
An overcast stitch is the same as serging, and is used to enclose unfinished edges. An overcast stitch gives your garment a neat and professional appearance.
To overcast you use a specialized overcast foot. Some machines come with an overlock foot. If not, you can always get one at a craft store.
What Is An Overcast Stitch Foot And Why Is It Important?
An overcast foot is an alternative for a serger. It’s made to help achieve quality finished raw edges. For example, when making knit fabrics, you can use this overcast stitch as a seam and secure the edges simultaneously.
Parts Of An Overcast Foot
Front vertical bar
It helps align your fabric with the needle as an edge guide that helps you make even stitches.
Center bar
It helps hold your fabric in place to prevent puckering.
Bridge
It accommodates more thread while stitching either zigzag or back and forth stitches.
To sew, change the presser foot by pressing the lever. Then attach the overcasting foot. Position the fabric by aligning it at the edge of the overedge foot. Lower the needle to test if it settles past the bridge.
Select the stitch you want to use. Note there are different stitches for overcasting that vary depending on your machine. Change the stitch length and width. Start sewing slowly to check if the stitches are securing your edges.
Once you finish, raise the needle, and pull your fabric back to cut the threads. Now you are done overcasting and securing your edges from raveling.
Conclusion
Learning what is an overcast stitch will help you achieve neat and clean projects. Whether you are doing hand projects or using a sewing machine, learning what an overcast stitch is, is vital.
You don’t have to have a serger to attain a professional-looking garment. Instead, use your regular sewing machine to make overcast stitches for your edges.
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